DIY Tulle Skirt Making. Christmas Party Skirt / Master Class "Christmas Star"

Jul 9, 2021 12:29 · 4570 words · 22 minute read

friends welcome you to our master class on sewing a mega fluffy skirt Christmas star this skirt consists of five layers four upper layers are satin layers and the lowest lining layer for it I use euro lining I bought it 1 meter although much less is needed to make this skirts, but one way or another, I have one meter, I need to cut out such a detail, this is how it is in width in unfolded form, this is how it looks when folded, the longest of the sides of this rectangle when folded, I have 52 centimeters plus one and a half nda allowance on the seam fifty-three and a half folded, respectively, in unfolded form, two times more than fifty-three and a half multiplied by 2, it turns out to be 107 centimeters, I fold my euro lining at this stage in two layers so that my here is the longest of the sides rectangle, now on the folded two layers of material, lay the length of the skirt plus an allowance along the bottom line, a seam allowance that is, as an example, I now take the length of the skirt 26 by half plus one and a half centimeters, postpone 28, draw the first line and put off two more times by 28 centimeters, thus postpone two auxiliary lines and through all these three lines I draw the first line from the fold of the material along the first line I I postpone my fifty-three and a half centimeters, that is, this is the longest one and I apply the same line to the sides of the rectangle, that is, in other words, it builds my rectangle 28 by fifty-three and a half centimeters, then I edge the belt, the goal is the skill of it with this lining, that is, the belt I will not cut out separately here I will see what I am doing to the very first line I apply my gum once I draw the chalk line I move beyond the chalk line and one more line on ours, that is, I am now putting two lines, but here a very important point I am working washed com and I have it at least one millimeter quickly enough it becomes wider even more than one millimeter is actually thick in the chalk line I have equal to the thickness of the elastic and so I laid two widths of the elastic 2 thicknesses of the elastic I also postpone the seam allowance along the top line one and a half centimeters plus I put it off and another five millimeters after the second width of the elastic I just put off two centimeters that’s all in these five millimeters will take two widths of the finishing seam along the waist, it will pass at a distance of about one millimeter a little less and the remainder will remain for easy sliding of the elastic, finally cutting out your rectangle with scissors like this it looks like when folded and also in unfolded form, you have already seen this more than once now I am going to cut tulle, I will not cut each of the four layers of atin separately, but I will be the first to cut the target with a regional skill with the second and the third will be heavily cut with a fourth layer of tulle, I use tulle for this skirt not with a crystal of tulle 3 meter cell width in tulle in the form of rhombuses and the patin itself has a pronounced shine, this tulle is rather not soft but you can even say that growth is hard because of its properties, these properties will give our skirt the necessary splendor.

My address of the tulle that I bought is 2 and a half meters, so I fold it in half now so that I get a meter twenty five I pin it with pins and under the ruler I draw a horizontal line in this way I level the tulle a little and cut off the excess with scissors I get a clear horizontal line to start my work from this line I postpone focusing on this line and I will edge two rectangles the first rectangle is the first and second layer of tulle whole Ukraine and the second rectangle this is the third and fourth layer of tulle, the goal is cut out between each other, now about the size of these rectangles, each layer of tulle is two centimeters longer in finished form than the lining layer, I also do not forget that for tulle on each layer I should also have a seam allowance along the line top please remember I just cut out the lining and I drew the first line on at a distance of 28 centimeters from the cut it was the length, taking into account a single allowance for there along the bottom line, and here along the top line, exactly 28 centimeters, I start from them, the originally conceived length is laid in them, that is, the length of the lining plus one and a half centimeters for the seam allowance and I I add those two centimeters to which each layer of tulle should be, that is, 30 centimeters is here, I explain it longer in practice, let’s say I do it everywhere I always take the same brothers, in any case, when working with a skirt, I definitely took the same allowances for seams everywhere and for me this allows me not to get confused during the opening, that is, the probability of error decreases , and so 30 centimeters I have the length of each layer since I edge the target layers on the cut 1 with the second 3 with the fourth I put off 30 and 60 centimeters this will also speed up my work and facilitate my work in the process when collecting, then at this stage at the cutting stage, the time for cutting is halved keeping the line since and twice less than drawing instead of 4 2 instead of cutting along four lines with scissors cut off only in two and the material is equalized at first always at least four layers x10 at least two layers always at the beginning it takes time so that all layers are clear, even and beautiful in any way, and always chops off with pins and every cleavage of us with pins also turns out the time is halved I just cut out two stripes of tulle in front of you when I tell the pins I have 4 stripes how they turned out I remind you I folded my piece of tulle with a length of 2 and a half meters in half so that I got a meter of twenty-five I put off one strip of 60 centimeters the second it took me 120 centimeters plus there is somewhere one centimeter and you remember I was leveling it out of this clearly I remember so that it was clear to you that I took the next step which to me you need to do this loop the lining and loop the layers of tulle while the tulle is temporarily moving away to the side and go to work from the lining I unfold my lining so that it is convenient for me to work with it from the side of the cut where I plan to have a belt of this cut they postpone the planned seam allowance for me this is one and a half centimeters then I measure the entire remaining part of the belt to the allowance and I divide it in half just by the ruler, look, I directly mark the remaining width of the belt with a marker, I have it six centimeters 8 millimeters I divide it in half it turns out 3 and 4 through these 3 and 4 my elastic will pass through my elastic tape I apply it in order to make sure that I am not I made a mistake behind the 3 mark behind it and set aside a small section with a marker and from 2 marks to the top I also dress a small section one centimeter long by this length I will make riveted seams and between these two rivets there will be a window through which the elastic will be threaded now I go over sewing machine, I will make a French seam, my material is double-sided to the place, both sides are front, if you have one-sided material, that is, one side, because your morning is wrong, significantly at this stage you need to fold the material with the front and wrong sides to each other, I set the stitch width of three millimeters, but the more I want to make my own seam as a result, the smaller the stitch width, I now need to choose it from one and a half to three millimeters now, the width of the seam may be 5 millimeters, focusing on the width of the foot clearly according to the marked mark I make bartacks 1 bartack now I sew the section before the bartack carefully carefully remove the pin I show you the limits of my second bartack with a marker so that you can see more clearly I stopped stitching to the mark reverse machine code securing the point I continue the seam to the end until the very cut, as always at the end, we also put the bartack at the beginning and at the end of the seam, this is understandable, this video is calculated nevertheless for professionals, there are already a lot of nuances that require a certain professionalism in execution; now we iron allowances on seam along the entire length of the seam gel I mark the section between the bartack me with a marker so that it is clear to you, and now this entire section between the bartack me, I need to lay two seams in this section on one side of the seam allowance one seam allowance to process the zigzag with a seam through and through with a lining and from the second side on this section to me it is necessary to prevent shedding in the future when the elastic is laid, I do this due to the zigzag seam, you can choose a different way overlock or melting of the material if the material is synthetic and is fed accordingly, I do this due to the zigzag seam I iron the zigzag seam once again otutyuzhivaem now under zigzag stitch straight straight to the seam leaving just one millimeter short of the seam do undercuts and press out the seam allowance to one side until the end of the seam have ironing tightens the remaining thread tags useful when ironing use these remnants of thread and then when I have not needed I cut them what I am doing now now we cut off the seam allowances leaving one-d I cut off my allowance until the end, turn the other side with the fabric, then iron it a little more and continue to work behind the machine now I lay a seam one more to the width of the trays I reach the bartack 1 so I mark the area where my first bartack ends I do the reverse machine code sew up to 2 bartacks and I am sewing the second bartack now again using wet heat treatment I iron the allowance on one side I cut off the excess threads then iron on the other now I take the seam ripper and unstitch the section of the seam between the bartack I ripped the thread I cut off the thread with scissors and and steam exactly the same section along the second seam without a zigzag seam touching here look I show you the section of the seam between the rivets and so ripped the entire hole for the elastic is ready and our material is looped now I turn to work on the bottom line of the skirt in order to process the bottom line at a distance of two centimeters from the cut I draw an auxiliary line you remember that the allowance I have one and a half centimeters and I now take 2 centimeters why you will understand in the process now the cut of my material I lay to the white line and gradually I lay a seam in a circle I fold the material with a cut to the white line I repeat and lay a seam with a stitch width of 2 millimeters the distance from the fold on which I lay the seam less than one millimeter , that’s what I get, and so on, I lay the seam in a circle, that is, along our ring, together with the intersection with the French seam that we did, I am now crossing it, you need to make an undercut because the material is now being bent, the seam allowance is bent by one centimeter, that is, here we are we put the seam allowance to this white line, we have the seam allowance bent by one centimeter, so they show you this one centimeter a little more than one centimeter, one millimeter further than this one centimeter, I will now cut the seam allowance with scissors so I remove the excess thickness of the material so that it does not bother me make this seam, which I am now doing, and the interpretation of the Moscow about the seam so that it does not interfere with me to make it the same beautiful, so I completed my seam in a circle around the ring and cut off the allowance with scissors leaving a distance of less than one millimeter from your machine go over scissors with thin blades and then you will have the very minimum allowance of less than one millimeter be careful not to accidentally cut with scissors blades there is no kushva that we just laid, so I show you my remainder that I also have completely removed this allowance in a circle and again I lay a seam behind the machine again focusing on the white line, that is, again I fold the material by laying already the resulting fold from the seam to the white line to the white stripe and lay a seam into the seam, that is, 2 went to the first one and again in a circle around the ring I lay a seam connecting seam, so I got another 55 millimeters worked, that is, that planned allowance of one and a half centimeters he worked for me at the end of the work I will wean the whole seam in a circle all this stage of work will be completed I’m moving on to the next one to work on the belt, the seam allowance along the top line, I have planned to remind one and a half centimeters too, and now I put off two widths of the seam allowance, that is, 3 centimeters and lay an auxiliary line of three centimeters in a circle around the ring I put it off and go to the iron at I now have an auxiliary white line now to this white line I lay a slice of my material and iron me it turns out a clear line gradually slowly advancing the platform of my iron I iron a fold equal to the width of my seam allowance it turns out one and a half centimeters here that line is just a guideline this is a white line now I give the fabric to cool for a few seconds now I take a ruler and measure the width of the belt inclusively with the last bartack where we did it remember the slot for the elastic is measured and now with a ruler why because many lines at this stage after repeated wet-heat treatment have already been erased, therefore you just need to measure the floor with a ruler I now put the value off again in a circle, this is what I get from the fold along the bartack, the very last this value in a circle around the ring, I put it off again and again go to the iron again to the white auxiliary line I lay the fold and teach it to live with a hot iron and so on in a circle, everything is now our lining, our 5th layer, the lowest one is completely ready to join with all layers of tulle , first of all I want to show you 2 versions of the same skirt, the first you see now on screen 2 now it will appear a little later you see the difference for the first version, trimmed three a layer of tulle on the bottom with a red ribbon for the second version, ours is a ribbon only on the first layer, look how much the skirt becomes more beautiful and magnificent when ours are three layers sometimes the masters think that this is only one layer of ours this is a ribbon of the masters or even this master class may not look the masters are ordinary people, that is, our order, and now people are convinced that it is only on one layer, here on one layer if you sew it into It looks like this and here we need 6 meters of satin ribbon plus seam allowances if we want to make a skirt exactly as stated initially in the master class, that is, an abundance of satin ribbon is needed for such a design that at least three layers, preferably 4 in general, what will happen if sew on a tape on four layers, that is, it will take 24 meters for four layers by three 18 meters that there will be such splendor if I get a horizontal line sheathed three layers, then I took this photo for four layers from the Internet and it will turn out such a line rises even higher than the horizon up the shoulders, our ribbon turns out to be a very fluffy for little girls, a very beautiful Christmas festive skirt.

In addition, if we only have one layer of ours for this ribbon, see the ribbon also lifts our tulle up and it turns out that the lower layers 2 3 4 are, as it were, exposed in those places where whether it rises above everything, and in my opinion it turns out aesthetically not quite a beautiful option, although perhaps someone also likes it this way let’s continue from 4 strips of tulle cut out I will make two rings each ring I get 6 meters long I take one of the tulle strips I open I find a cut from one side I take the other let’s say let there be a second strip I cover the first with the same cut I cut with pins I prepare the connection with a machine a seam on one side and on the other side, too, 2 cuts are free connecting so that I get a ring of tulle 6 meters long 3 4 strips I do exactly the same before starting work, but in extreme cases at this stage we need to decide when we sew a satin ribbon it can be to sew now a little later, or in general at the very end, first of all, I will now work on this kind of skirt design, that is, with a ribbon on the upper layer, so now I will only sew on the upper layer, you will see the whole process until the end there are also a lot of interesting and important nuances useful for work as for the second and third layers I will sew as you remember only on t ri I will just do it later at the very end of the work for one of the rings I lay seams on both sides where I have pins there I lay one connecting show it will be a 34 ring after the machine seams have already been laid I cut off the tulle allowance leaving one millimeter along the second ring, where I will sew the satin ribbon, I lay only one seam for the time being, and the second, on the second side, the cuts of tulle, I still have some shrunken pins, I remove one of the pins, I bend one corner of the tulle so that it does not interfere, also pin it up with a pin and apply my own ленту к срезу фатина заползаю всей шириной ленты наползают можно так сказать на фатин не доходя буквально пол пол миллиметра миллиметр то есть атласная лента на миллиметр выглядывает за пределы среза фатина смотрите у каждой ленты есть кромочка вот я ее сейчас показываю вам рядом с кромочка есть такой как бы желобок по длине всей ленты вот в этот желобок я сейчас прокладывают свой шов полностью по всем шест и метров по всей длине кольца прошиваю атласную ленту расположение шва в этом желобке или можно его назвать также углублением так вот расположение шва именно здесь делает этот шов менее заметным вообще практически незаметным такое печенье что его там вообще и нет при правильных настройках машины при отсутствии эффекта стяжки шов вообще незаметный ну и также играет роль цвет выбранных вами не так но в целом шов получается незаметным то есть можно сказать невидимый по лицевой стороне обрезаю ленту теперь нашу эту ленту складываю изнаночными сторонами друг к другу и прокладываю шов на ширину лапки так я уравняла свои срезы и оплавляются и срезы оплавляем самый простой вариант спичкой либо выжигателем по ткани вернее об мы оплавляем не спичкой а пламенем от спички теперь складываем ленту лицевыми сторонами друг другу и прокладываем еще один шов нитки в цвет ленты длина нашего шва равна ширине нашей ленты то есть только на участке где у нас расположены и ленты прокладываем этот коротенький шов в цвет ленты нитки в цвет ленты для того чтобы окончательно закольцевать наш фатин меняем нитки на другой цвет на цвет фатина и прокладываем обычный стачной шов на ширину лапки после того как шов проложен мы также его должны срезать то есть не его а мы должны срезать припуски шва оставив один миллиметр приближаясь к ленте я разворачиваю лезвия ножниц так чтобы сойти на нет к ленте кольцо 24 и кольцо 12 теперь беру кольцо 12 нагреваю свой утюг и методом перегиба и заутюживаю отделяю первые слоя фатина от второго по кольцу 12 складываю пополам прикасаюсь горячий платформы утюга при утюжила чуть-чуть продвинулась придержала руками при утюжила опять продвинулась придержала ладонями рук продвинулась и так по всему кольцу 12 и по кольцу 34 отделяем таким образом слои друг от друга теперь мне нужно присборить фатин для этого я меня лапку на швейной машине раскрываю кольцо 12 так чтобы я видела заутюжили срез и прокладываю на расстоянии от среза 1 и 4 сантиметра то есть 1,3 сантимет ра прокладывал при сборе воюющей шов на платформе машины у меня нанесенные метки и укладывая заутюжили изгиб на меточку нужную мне от клад прокладываю шов по всему кольцу при сборе вающие вот мой результат теперь мне нужно проложить еще один такой же шов тоже на расстоянии 1 и 4 в общем на расстоянии 14 миллиметров от этого же сгиба но в другую сторону вот мой результат а кольцо 34 при сборе вают только по самому сгибу то есть одним единственным швом для того чтобы ускориться в работе и беру опять свое кольцо 12 и беру подготовленное кольцо из европодкладки выворачиваю свое кольцо из фатина так чтобы она меня сейчас смотрел второй слой и вставляю в него слой европодкладки тоже присмотритесь внимательно как я раскрываю припуск на шов и теперь по кругу подкалываю и приметываю подкладку к фатина заутюжили изгиб мне и сейчас помогает в работе я прямо по зову ти ужином если бы я его вижу я его ощущаю пальцами складываю и четко таким образом уровневую о длине первой второй слой теперь беру кольцо из фатина 34 подкалываю булавками и тоже приметываю затем иду к машине и прокладываю машинный шов для того чтобы не сделать брака выворачиваю юбку таким образом чтобы на меня сейчас смотрела подкладка только после этого прокладываю же теперь горячим утюгом приутюживаем припуск шва очень аккуратно носиком утюга продвигаюсь так чтобы не заскочить утюгом за шов то есть только до самого машина вашего таким образом я убираю толщину вот с такого толстого объема приблизительно сантиметр даже больше объем фатина превращается вот в такой вы тоники буквально один миллиметр может быть чуть чуть больше но так или иначе значительно уменьшается в объеме теперь я продолжаю умирать толщину с припуска фатина перепуска нашел сделать его более плоским и удобными в дальнейшей работе но теперь уже с помощью ножниц вырезаю буквально высекая ножницами своего рода треугольники кроме треугольников также вырезаю часть припуска на шов убирают то есть с полутора сантиметров уменьшают до сантиметра и прод олжаю вырезать треугольники здесь кому как удобно кому-то удобно вначале средств и треугольники потом убирать высоту кому-то в начале убрать и в ширину припуска а потом высекать треугольника индивидуальный выбор каждого мастера здесь кому как удобно вот в этих моментах последовательность выберите сами теперь заправляю подкладку внутрь юбки и отделяю пояс то есть тот участок кольца нашего которой из подкладки сделан отделяю ориентируясь по сгибу просто расправляю пальцами внимательно прощупываю если нужно посмотреть просматриваю внимательно чтобы никакой припуск фатина не оказался за пределами пояса то есть вот этот момент здесь нужно быть внимательным и не торопиться в этом на этом этапе работы тоже подкалываю булавочками округу затем иду за машинку и прокладываю шок вот шов первый шов который я сейчас буду прокладывать я буду прокладывать 2 я прокладываю сейчас шов прямо соединительный шов которым соединялось подкладка с фатином вот прямо в него прокладываю соответственно он тоже стан овится своего рода невидимого 500 от кому-то из вас возможно будет достаточно одного вот этого шва и больше никаких швов вы делать не будете я же буду делать еще второй шов который будет играть и роль отделки и добавлять дополнительные крепости нашему поясу показываю вам результат как выглядит этот же шов со стороны подкладки опять сажусь за машину и прокладываю тот самый второй шов о котором я говорила он находится на расстоянии менее чем один миллиметр от соединительного шва нашего первого соответственно пространство для резинки у меня сейчас чуть чуть уменьшается при просчете пояса всегда помните об этом расстоянии теперь беру резинку размечаю как всегда я уже не неоднократно показывал это в своих роликах размечаю не обрезая нужный кусок пока не столько размечаю на с бобины сколько мне нужно посредстве на кусок резинки 50 сантиметров я сейчас себе отмеряю и прокладываю ее внутрь при помощи английской булавки с двух сторон резинки разметила прокладываю через наше отверстие через наше окошко когда уже проложила полностью резинку только тогда срезаю не забыв о припуски на шов всю и сажусь за машинку соединяют два конца резинки соединив два конца расправляю резинку и прошиваю 3 закрепочные шва поперек нашего пояса нахожу сенсоры людке на к любви боковые веточки вот по ним прокладываю швы длина швов равна ширине нашего пояса для того чтобы при использовании изделия резинка внутри пояса не перекручивалась и не скручивались каким-либо образом для этого делаются вот эти три коротеньких шва.