Jak ulepszyć i przerobić model statku na pływający RC? Schnellboot 1/35 RC #Zabytki_Nieba

Thank you all Patrons from Patronite.pl! Hi. Today I will show you a naval model instead of an airplane. This is my Schnellboot S-100. It is converted to remote control Why is it white despite operating at night? See my modifications which went a bit too far. I hope you’ll like such an episode, even though I talk a lot. This vessel was called Schnellboot or S-Boot (German: fast ship) or the E-Boat (“E” for “Enemy”) These were built by Luerssen shipyard which still exists.

01:12 - Older generations had separate torpedo tubes on top of the deck. Also the pilot house was exposed. Here it is hidden behind a bulletproof cover known as Kalotte (“skull”) This hides many details you would otherwise see clearly. I like to know what I tackle. I gathered a lot of information before initiating the build. Olny one Schnelboot still exists. It is currently at some level of restoration.

02:06 - I found books, prints, you can see it all now. I also had one English album which was very expensive and I have sold it later. I have found many archival information useful for significant upgrade of the model. There were also original pre-war blueprints scanned. There is a Schnellboot wreck close to Malta. I have watched all diving videos available. It is in some respects well preserved. There are some wartime films on YouTube. Eventually I made my sketches and notes, an was ready to modify the model upon building. I did no go for particular craft, but made a generic S-100 model.

03:41 - Inthis way I could utizlize the most of materials gathered. The only emblem is this seal, used on Baltic flotilla. This is the scheme I chose. Many elements were purchased separately, like crew figures, this dog, barrels, canisters, and stuff to place all around the deck. If you want a realistic model you need photo etched parts. Some PE elements were included but I bought anmother, larger one with more details.

04:34 - The yellow one was from model, the grey one is additional. Photo etched parts are good because as you can see they greatly increase the detail level of little parts or nets but they are very vulnerable to touch and vibration. I was afraid that these little hinges or handles will fall apart after staring the engines. I also bought meral barrels for guns. They are empy inside and far better than plastic ones.

05:38 - Schnellboot would attack with one of four torpedos. And had a 40 knot topspeed, which was defensive weapon. Of course not against planes. There were two or three AA-guns onboard. The liferafts are another story. It is hard to find out what type of dinghys was used. I have a wartime photo showing two different ones.

06:21 - So I used the swuare one from the kit and the oval one I bought elsewhere (it was hard to get it when I was building in 2014). It is full of interesting pieces of equipment. The stern is nmodified. These rails were used to drop mines. Some boats had long, some had short as shown. This gave the room for the dinghy. Range and speed made Schnellboots useful for recovering airmen after ditching. This is a resin figure of Luftwaffe pilot who looks back, where his plane sank. Another problem was with the torpedo tubes. Kalotte covers it almost completely. There was initially a ¹⁄₇₂ model. It looks as if it was enlarged but with the same detail level.

07:58 - Therefore som elements look like this whike in reality they looked like this. So this is what I had to scratch build myself. Despite one may actually never notice it. But the stern is yet worse. The black and the white. These are elements for making smoke cover They are like 2,5cm high. But in the kit these were just cones. Literally. Unacceptable.

09:01 - So these became another scratch-made elements. This whole section including the figure and everything I made is something realistic and pleasant to look at. Initially it was an empty deck with four cones. And these vents were made straight so it made no sense, as the nearly touched the superstructure. Correction necessary. The bridge. I was afraid that these windshield frames will fall apart.

10:09 - I considered not using them at all. This device for targeting required few cables and add-ons to look nicely as you can see it looking from the top. Painting. I used brushes. I’ve never become an airbrush artist. Why is this white? Or nearly white? As the Schnellboots were used mainly at night the Germans kept experimenting with various schemes. The result was that it is the hardest to see a white vessel at night. There was mist, waves with foam, moonlight reflexes and this all made the white boat the hardest to see. This vessel was 35 meters long.

11:32 - The Schnellboots were delivered snow-white with black underwater part. Than the black part was masked and the “Schnellbootweiss” white color was painted to the hull and standard red for underwater part. After removing the masking tape this black stripe was left marking the factory-painted waterline. (still explaining this) I used the primer for plastic covered with custom made “Schnellbootweiss” enamel white shade. And the red part was sprayed with special spray which contained more paint and less thinner than normally.

13:00 - It created a nice, thick layer after the first painting. Primer caused trouble so now I use this typeo primer (brand as an example). This is matt black spray good for exposing any surface imperfections, it covers well, dries instantly and is good for any color and any paint kind. I don’t use an airbrush (I’d love to have the skill) but I use shading techniques. This is called the “weathering” process.

13:56 - This makes everything look worn, not as factory-fresh boat. It represents a combat-used vessel. It’s dirty, it’s shaded in places where formers touched the planking, there is rust, there are scratches, also the uniforms are dirty. This is what makes a model not look like a toy. Is it true that some competitions forbid to weather the naval models? I don’t like model competitions where someone wins because someone states that his model is the nicest one. It’s not a sport.

15:05 - Anyway, if it true that weathering is not allowed, I’m shocked. What, was the rail polished clean after every mine-drop or what? The flag… Kits have it as decal which I don’t like because it hangs like a piece of paper. It still to small to make it wave. This is made from a piece of flag-cloth an has the scheme painted on it. It is shaped to look as heavy flag.

15:58 - It is made to meet the historical look with Svastika being the central element. Again, Germans forbid to display it even on true to scale models. Despite thi s model being serious display item. The decals from this kit (made in Italy) have the Kriegsmarine flag with empty white circle. Some brands replace Svastika with a cross(!) or square, or the make it like a puzzle from yet smaller pieces.

16:42 - I don’t agree with such policy models are models and should represent the reality. Kriegsmarine hoisted the colors with Svastika. Germany was denazificated after WWII. All Svastikas were removed even from medals. This is a Schnellboot flotilla badge. The German eagle of the era obviously grasps a Svastika. Event the vetereans who gave their lives on the sea serving German state were not allowed to wear it unless they took a file and grinded the Svastika down. Is it legitimate? Or are we pretending that some things never existed? All model I build have the insignia historically correct. I also painted the name on these wheels instead of using the decals. It;s not perfect, but what was perfect at war? It has some charm.

18:25 - I always like to change the deck to wood. Especially when it can be made of individual pieces. You can later see that these are actual wooden elements with proper textures, wear and some imperfections. This is a lot better than just plastic mould. This concerns all wooden deck pieces. This is all genuine wood. Now about the RC conversion.

19:25 - The main issue is with the access to the inside. There are motors, electronics and batteries. Here the kit was “helpful”. You can lift this segment And always damage some detail! I made two bars which block it underneath the deck. And in the back it has a magnet. These tapes blackout the lights. This gives access to: battery socket, receiver, along with the main switch. Two motors with radiators and the removable rear deck. This compromises the look. Lacking chain and a cut.

20:55 - Not a big price for being able to expose the whole inside part. Disconnecting… Nothing broken! The whole drive with mechanism I will show in a momant. The real Schnellboot reached over 40 knots thanks to three 20-cylinder Daimler-Benz Diesel engines. Each had 2000HP. I now thank my top Patronite.pl Patrons, When filming this episode they were: I wil open the bow. This also has sockets to disconnect This gives access to the battery.

22:24 - I use NiMH cells as my models are mainly displayed stationary so I use the easiest to store and maintain battery types. Here is the light, and moving gun. Battery is connected to speed regulator, it is connected to the receiver, here is the on/off switch. Then two motors are powered by a single speed controller. Each drives a shaft and propeller. Here notice the buzzer. When there is more than 5mm of water over the keel an acoustic alarm goes off.

23:33 - Somewhere here is also the remote-controlled switch operating the lights. This pipe protects cables from the rotating shafts. This battery pack powers the receiver, along with the lights. This is tha Luerssen hallmark. The so-called Luerssen-effect mechanism. There are 3 screws and 3 rudders.

24:22 - The outer rudders could be angled outwards which made waterflow cause less drag and increased the boat’s speed by 10% I designed a mechanical solution to represent this effect. It functions, but you won’t notice the speed increase. See the light reflection in real wood. In order to find the center of gravity I take all the heavy elements (structural and RC) I temporarily put it all together place in the water and move the elements around (especially the battery). Then I fix them in proper places. I use the 6 channel radio. You can program several models.

25:43 - Channles are: 1-motors 2-rudders 3-lights 4-gun movement 5-Luerssen effect. Channel 6 is not used. If you want more models you need several receivers. Then you program them all. Now it shows that it uses “Schnellboot”. There were only plane icons. You can have one radio per model also. It makes no sense to take the receiver out as the antenna is guided through here. You’d have to pull this back, disconnect all those cables…

26:36 - Hard to move it to another model and back. I chose a different approach, If you like this film, I’ll show other solutions and models. Here I caused another problem. These 2 screws work. The middle one rotates freely. But the middle screw “has” the largest rudder. The other ones are bigger than the scale tells us - I had to retrofit them. The model turned out having very low manouverability.

27:24 - I have repeated the “Titanic” mistake. Titanic had 3 screws. 2 on the sides were steam machine driven and could run backwards. The middle one was increasing waterflow around the rudder and was turbine-driven (forward only). While evading iceberg two screws pulled backwards the middle one was stationary and put the rudder in wake, decreasing its effectiveness. I was aware of this story and still made the similar mistake.

28:19 - I resigned from the middle motor as it all would be too heavy. This saved weight at the cost of agility. The scale-correct speed of this model is for me 5,5kph. But this is top speed so the model should enter slide which does not happen and it sails more like a larger destroyer than like a motorboat. It’s bow-heavy. The lights. Front gun bay, the bridge has searchlight, under the hatch, the bridge interior, navigation lights LED’s are color, despite the original lights being white with red/green background.

29:44 - The lamps near torpedo tubes, compass (in the very middle of the vessel) These are covers of under-deck rooms. The other covers have illuminators. the stern has a lamp simulating flame. and the lit hatch. And now in pitch dark. I put the tubes across the hull to make fixation points for transporting model on special base I made (but the base was destroyed as my basement was flooded). It is wortk to put soft material on the stand. The hull won’t get scratched.

31:32 - I also order engraved labels for my models. And the plexiglass cabinet. It is safer and lighter than organic glass plus you can easily add handles for easy and clean handling. I hope you like my Schnellboot and the lenngth of the episode did not scare you away. Please comment if you like to see How making Schnellboot influenced my modifications on this Vosper. Thanks! .