How to Make Chainsaw Man Cosplay - Free PDF Template - Denji Cosplay Prop Part 1

go ahead and cut out the slats that are in part a to get a clean cut on the back of all these sections i poke through with my hobby knife and just like before you can follow these lines and cut it out with a hobby knife or you can use a band saw for stability of this piece i would recommend to start with the outside longest cuts and work your way in now with parts a and b cut out i can use my heat gun to manipulate part b to match the curve of part a weld wood contact cement is applied to the interior cut seams after the contact cement has been allowed to dry parts a and b can firmly be pressed together i would recommend to start in the bottom where we had our flat cut on part b and work your way up the side after the two sides have been assembled you can see how it makes up the front faceplate of the mask go ahead and take part c and transfer that onto some 10 millimeter foam and cut it out a mark on part c where this piece is going to align but i’ve already taken that section out on the templates that you download apply contact cement to all the pieces that will be affixed and then align the outside corner and press this half on to attach the smaller slats i just use some bobsmith super glue i do this because it keeps the build nice and clean and it’s fine for this application once this site is done go ahead and attach the other half and you can see how just a couple of pieces of foam really start to define the overall shape and size time to work on the chainsaw so we’re going to take part d and transfer that onto some six millimeter foam two times to give the blade some stability i’m using a metal yard marker this rod has been bent to shape and then i trace around it on the inside of part d using a small stone bit on my dremel i create a channel on both halves of the foam that will house the rod some more super glue is applied in the cavity and then the rod could be pressed into place because i have a lot of surface area to cover here i’m going to be using some 3m foam fast this is a spray on contact cement and it works great for foam projects it’s a little difficult to get this spray all the way to the edge perfectly so i’m going to put a small bead of super glue along the perimeter after the contact cement has dry the two halves can be laid on top of each other and then i use a pvc pipe as a rolling pin having the metal rod in there really makes a difference and gives this piece a decent amount of stability now you’re going to want to take a scrap piece of six millimeter foam that’s approximately two inches by six inches this is going to be glued to the back of the blade and what’s going to hold it to the inside of the front of the mask after you have the scrap piece glued on go ahead and position it about an inch up from the bottom of the mask here you can see i’m gluing part b onto the scrap foam pretty close to the sides of the blade this process is done for both sides and you can see what the top of the mask is going to look like now we can fabricate the chin so go ahead and take part e and f and transfer it onto some six millimeter foam the big thing to note is that the tops of part f and the sides of part e also need to be cut at 30 degree angles when glued together with some contact cement these angles give us the shape that we need any additional material that’s on the sides or on the bottom feel free to cut that away with some scissors using a pencil i lightly mark approximately where the teeth and the gums are going to go to fabricate the teeth for chainsaw man i’m going to be using some 15 millimeter hd foam round dowels small pieces of wire are cut and inserted into the dowels just to give it a little bit of rigidity once the glue is set i use my scissors to get a rough cut for the shape of the tooth then i’m able to refine the shape even more using a smooth sanding drum on my dremel rotary tool after a light heat treatment the concept for this tooth is looking pretty good now you don’t have to do this but because time is of the essence i’m going to refine all the rest of my teeth on my belt sander all in all i figure i needed about 30 teeth in general and you can see that i played around with the placements based on the numerous holes on the underside of the jaw once i was happy with their spacing a little bit of super glue was used to tack them all into place go ahead and cut out part g out of some 10 millimeter foam i’m going to use my circle jig and if you want to see how this works i’ll put a link up above a bunch of half inch four millimeter strips are cut these are going to be used for the chain links that hold together his jaw a single strip is glued and then wrapped around part g switching gears i’m going to work on the back of the mask and i’m going to transfer part h onto some 10 millimeter foam now if you notice the lines that i’ve drawn onto this foam these are going to be dremeled out using a stone bit by removing this channel in the foam it will help it to bend at a sharper angle so after the rotary tool is complete i apply some contact cement and leave it to dry after the glue is cured you can see how i can press it together and give this more of a box shape part h can now be glued onto parts a b and c and attach it to the back of the mask make note of where i’m applying the glue and notice that there’s a small gap still left at the top this small section will make it look like one of the chain spikes is coming out of his head now part i is a little bit deeper and i didn’t have that piece made up when i was creating my mask but the pdf that you download has already been corrected so just transfer part i onto some 10 millimeter foam and cut it out just like part h i’m going to dribble in a few v cuts and this will help it bend then part i can be glued to the back of part h you can see how this tiered effect really starts to give this mask some volume i cut some more 15 millimeter round dowels into half inch discs these are going to act as posts for the back of part g because of the height difference the posts are going to be glued on to part i and then the half inch four millimeter strips can be glued to the sides of the jaw part j is going to be a two inch strip of six millimeter foam that will wrap around the back of your head and honestly if you’re just going the mask route this is a viable option but we’re doing the whole helmet so let’s continue take part k and transfer it onto some six millimeter foam part k is going to be glued under part i but then its arms are going to wrap around to the front of part h and the front of part i these are lightly marked with a pencil for placement and then glued down with some super glue and once the anime comes out later on you may change all these anyway part l is also traced onto some six millimeter foam now the thing to note here is the top section of part l will overlap onto part k but then the two lower parts of part k will be glued on top of part l this is going to give it an integrated look but really helps strengthen the back of the helmet now the insides of part k and part l can be glued onto the two inch strip that we added earlier part m can now be transferred onto some six millimeter foam and just like part j this is going to be dependent on the size of your head so it’s possible that this piece may need to be adjusted but here you can see the tops of part m are glued to the undersides of part i and then the back of it can be glued onto part l and now the lower two arms of part l can be pulled up and glued onto part m and this is what’s tough because aesthetically i want it looking cool but all these pieces overlapping and interlocking really help with the helmet’s durability for all the individual chain segments and the blades i’m using four millimeter foam part n is traced onto the foam with a pencil and then individually cut out this same process is also done for o and p for this section i think i needed about 25 each of o and p and about a hundred of n this also took into consideration a few failures or once it didn’t look just right now for part n i rounded over all four corners and then used the drum to make a small divot into the bottom of the piece all the pieces were then individually held over the heat gun just to get a light heat seal now unlike a normal chainsaw the links actually don’t connect the blades the links themselves are attached to each individual blade so it’s just the process of sandwiching part n on either side of part o and part p and again what i’m doing here is i’m basing this off of what i’ve seen in the manga and for the anime trailer and who knows all this could eventually change when official stuff comes out but this is how it is right now so now that i’ve got all my pieces each one of these is glued onto the blade making sure to swap them back and forth between the small blades and the long blades also notice there’s no rivet points on any of these that’s just how the anime is but if i wanted to i could always go back with a heat tool later on to fabricate the handles on the top and the back of the head i’m going to be using some pvc pipes i did this because i thought that the additional weight of the pvc pipes would help balance this entire helmet out and i was right in just a note you can see all the measurements for the pvc pipes that i used in the lower right hand corner of the template to house the pipe on the back of the head i’m going to be making part q but first i need to glue three pieces of 10 millimeter foam together i press the pvc pipe into the foam so i know exactly where it’s going to go then i can use a smooth sanding drum on my rotary tool to round over the edges and the front using a forstner bit attached to my drill i can drill into the foam and make sure that this pvc pipe is going to sit well if you don’t have a forstner bit you can do the same process with your rotary tool before i glue any of this together you see these mold lines that are on the pieces they need to go away so i’m going to use my rotary tool with a lower grit drum to get rid of all these imperfections after the main pass is complete i can then use a sanding sponge to make sure that everything is nice and smooth this is also a great way to prep all these pieces for additional adhesives or paint i used my forstner bit once again to give me two rings parts r and s these are going to go onto the pvc pipes but attach to parts q and the back of the helmet these are just additional details that make it look nice park q can now be marked on the helmet and glued into place and i can see exactly where the lower part of the handle is going to go using my forstner bit once again i drill into the back of the helmet just a little bit this will give me just enough of a depression that i can press part s into place a little bit larger forstner bit is used on the sides of the helmet and you can see exactly where these elbows are going to go with the elbows pressed in and the top pipe in place i really think these handles turned out really well and it’s just enough weight to balance the entire helmet out it’s at this time i noticed that the lower jaw needed some reinforcement so go ahead and take part t and trace it onto some 10 millimeter foam the sides are once again cut at an angle and it can be glued and put into place after i attached this piece i decided i wasn’t really happy with the placement of the jaw and that’s the great thing about foam i was able to rip it off and reposition it for the gum areas i’m just trying to remove some of this material because i’m going to go in with some foam clay and build it up organically once i’ve got the jaw where i’d like it to go i drop on a couple beads of super glue just to tack it into place now i can go back and attach part g to the side of the face and the strips down to the lower jaw with the new placement correct i can now attach part u onto part m and attach that also to the lower jaw i go ahead and attach a couple more strips back behind just to fill in these gaps and again aesthetically this looks really cool but it’s structurally helping the whole jaw stand out to give these gears some additional details i cut some more discs out of the 15 millimeter round out then i take my forstner bit and drill out the gear and then glue the discs in its place now i’m going to add some additional chain links to these jaw strips this time though because there’s so many in a small area i want to save on space i’m going to cut part in out of some two millimeter foam my thought on this is that if i kept all of this at a four millimeter foam like i’d done for the main chain that i just wouldn’t have quite enough room for the overlaps from all the other strips to break up these shapes i also cut part v out of some foam it’s a subtle difference but it’s enough that it gives some different interesting details to simulate the rivets on the sides of the gears i’m just going to glue on some black furniture tacks gluing together two pieces of 10 millimeter foam i’m going to start working on part w this is going to be an exhaust port on the side of his head i start by cutting out the main circle twice and then using my hole saw on the drill press i removed the middle section now if you didn’t have a hole saw your other option would be to cut a circle out of one piece of 10 millimeter foam and then glue it to the second one i cut out a circle to match the interior diameter and then marked where the grille would go this is burned into the foam using a heat tool once those are complete they can be glued inside the cavity that i created part w can now be glued onto the side of the head you can see placement of it here in the video to detail this exhaust section out a little bit more i cut an additional circle and then glue that into the center then i cut a small disc out of the 15 millimeter dowel and glue that right in the middle all these intricate details really aren’t a necessity it just helps add a believability to the overall piece taking part x and cutting it out of some 10 millimeter foam this strip can now be glued to the front of the exhaust the bulk of the back of the helmet is really coming together but you can see i still have some gaps here and there so taking a 20 millimeter half round dowel i glue it to the back side to cover up this horizontal gap just like the section at the top glue is added to a small piece of four millimeter foam and then it can be adhered to the interior it’s time now to add a bunch of little intricate details to the side of the helmet and for some of these i don’t have templates and that’s just because they’re individual pieces of dowels half round dowels and small scrap foam i’m going to show these to the camera and their placement so you can copy it as best you can but since the back of this helmet still isn’t shown clearly in any of the content you can make up whatever details you want back here and no one’s going to question you moving on to part y this template is going to be cut out of some six millimeter foam four times for an additional shape some half roundels are going to be cut and then glued towards the front of this piece to remove the half circle near the front i just dremeled that out using a small stone bit now for placement of part y notice i set the helmet down on the table and then glued that flat to the bottom this will make sure that my helmet sits flat and has some support to the bottom while on display for part z i have a basic template just so you can get the sizing correct but as you can see here it’s just multiple dowel pieces glued together to represent some kind of machinery here in the video you can see where i attached it to the back of the helmet i really like the use of the pvc pipes for the handles but to give it a more uniform look i’m going to be gluing small sections of two millimeter foam to the pvc pipes in between the elbows it’s just as simple as cutting them to fit and then wrapping them around the pipe luckily all the sanding that i’d done earlier makes the glue stick really well now if your two millimeter foam doesn’t line up perfectly it’s not a big deal i ended up filling any of the gaps that i had later on with some quick seal this process was also done to the handle on the back of the helmet i can now press on the top handle but i don’t glue it i leave it movable in case i need to transport this piece later on using a wood burner and some scrap foam i add a few more details here and there this isn’t really planned as much as i’m looking at the piece and deciding where something should go now i know that’s a bunch of intricate little details to add to the back of this helmet but visually man does it look cool i cut part a a out of some six millimeter foam and just like i had done for the gears on the sides i add a small furniture tack to simulate the rivet now take part bb and transfer that onto some four millimeter foam this is just an additional detail i’m adding to the support structure on the top of the handle i punched out a bunch of small circles out of two millimeter foam to simulate rivets and i’m just applying these with some super glue wherever i think structurally it looks like they would go just to visually add something else to the back of the helmet i’m going to use a 10 millimeter hd foam half round dowel this is going to attach to the top of part w and then wrap underneath the handle support to the opposite side now take part cc cut that out of some four millimeter foam and glue that onto the back of the helmet to simulate the organic parts of this helmet i’m going to be using some of my foam clay for his gums when using foam clay you want to wet it first this will help the foam clay adhere then i use my fingers or various silicone tip sculpting tools to push the foam clay where i need it to go now foam clay has a tendency to bounce back so you want to press harder than what you would think this will make sure your detail lines show up after it dries you could also refine these shapes even more after the foam clay dries by using your rotary tool or sanding sponges but here you can see what a great job the foam clay does giving me the ability to sculpt in all these organic details foam clay is also applied to the crevice on either side of the saw blade once the material has been packed in there pretty well i use a silicone tip sculpting tool to pull some of it out i’m going for the visual that i want this blade to look as though it’s grown organically out of the front of his skull the last spot we’re going to need some foam clay is on his gums for the lower jaw just like the upper gums a small bit of water is applied to the foam just to help the foam clay adhere better and then it’s just a matter of using my fingers brushes or sculpting tools to get the desired look so you all can see the steps that i took to put together this awesome chainsaw man helmet and remember this is just a part one that goes over the fabrication part two goes over all the coloring all the weathering all the gore and that’s what’s gonna bring this to life now something that you guys can do to help me out is to share these videos with your friends and your family and remember if you’re building any of my builds or using hd foam be sure to tag me at sksprops on twitter and instagram because i want to see your creations until next time build your best with the best hd foam you.