How To Install Gutters, By a Professional Roofer | Beginner Friendly in Depth How-To (SUBTITLES)

Mar 2, 2021 15:00 · 3637 words · 18 minute read

good morning um we are out here at the pasture and as you maybe saw in the most recent vlog we got the shed moved out to its actual place uh now that we’re getting close to construction which i’m super excited to announce we uh got cleared to close and we are expected to close uh actually here in a week like this coming week then we can start construction so you guys are gonna start seeing some stuff so we’re gonna be doing a virtual tour of what our future farmhouse is going to look like um roughly give you guys a really good idea i’m really excited to do that um back to the shed we got the shed moved out here and actually if you can tell we did a pad we’re in florida so if you’re not in florida we experience flooding sometimes so you want to raise your structures up off of the ground so we’ve got a one foot high pad for the shed and it’s just a standard shed but we’re already starting to see just from the dew we haven’t even had any rain but just from the dew you see this this hard harsh line here that is erosion from just the runoff from the roof davus is going to show you guys how he is going to install gutters on our shed to divert water now he is a roofer but keep in mind what he is going over is per florida code we have very specific codes down here in florida because we have hurricanes and things like that so what he is going to be going over is to code to florida but he also said something about smackah SMACNA it’s a sheet metal basically it is the national sheet metal regulations he’s the roofer not me so but i’m kind of relaying some information to you but he’s gonna go over everything with you guys show you what all you need um explain details so that you guys can also kind of calculate it yourself and then show you how to install it you can pick up all this at home depot what we got is a five inch gutter you can get six inch it all depends on your roof surface area our shed doesn’t really have a big roof so i opted for the cheaper on the five inch if you have a larger roof surface then you might want to go with the six inch that’s all gonna be relative to what you’re working with or a house if you had that if you i mean depending on what you’re putting gutters on if you’re putting gutters on your house then i would recommend a six inch just for the extra water flow uh for a small shed like this the five inch is gonna do just fine so we got our five inch gutters the downspouts and these are just the two by three downspouts because like i said we’re not dealing with a whole lot of water flow so we went with the smaller the downspouts as well these are your straps that go with your downspouts very simple they come with the screws already they’re about a dollar and some change about a dollar and a half a piece and to install your strap you take it at a backwards angle like this and you hook it into the front and you spin it back like this and get it to really set in there and then you clip it onto the back remove my hand so you can get a better view of that and you clip it onto the back like that and then you drive your screw from the outside and that keeps your screw down at the right angle and also allows it to penetrate through the metal and gives it support as well on the back with the extra thickness of the metal instead of just having a strap to the front then you’re relying on only your thickness of the metal to support at the screw this way you have your extra thick strap to help support the screw and where these straps hook under is going to be under your drip edge which is your edge metal on your roof some of them are going to be tight this sheds got pretty tight drip edge they wrapped it in one piece so it makes it a little tight they didn’t put no corners on there we might have to do a little notching in the middle if yours has an overhang that’s great some places they add a 1 by 2 behind the drip edge to keep the water from kicking back on the fascia and that helps save your facial wood this is all vinyl and uh in aluminum so we had no need for that extra kick out uh so that’s where yours that’s how you would install your straps and then we will move on to uh these are your downspout outlets these help connect your downspout to the gutter you cut a hole the same size as your hole right here on the on the bottom of the gutter and this slips in from the top of the gutter and that allows you to put rivet screws whatever you want to do to keep your outlet from moving around i recommend pop rivets um this is just a shed i’m not gonna i’m not gonna install anything on them because it’s not not anything that i’m worried about if it ever leaks or anything this is just purely for water diversion to keep the pad from washing out if this was your house i would recommend pop rivets or screws it all depends on what you’re working with for screws what you would need are self drilling screws metal to metal you don’t want metal to wood metal to wood is not going to grab your inside metal pieces properly it it’s meant to go through the metal into wood you always want a metal metal screw preferably with neoprene washers depending on where you’re putting the screws at um for your straps on your downspouts we opted to go for the back straps just for a nice cleaner look on the front uh they do make straps that install over the face of the the downspout and you get two screws but leaves the screws exposed and it just doesn’t look as clean i opted for the back straps and you uh for a ten foot stick per floor to code or for smacking the regulations it requires a strap 12 inches from your bottom 12 inches from your top and every 5 feet in between so for a 10 foot piece you would need three straps and that is for wind mitigation so wind doesn’t snatch your downspouts off of your edge to complete your gutters home depot is nice enough to sell end caps so you don’t have to fabricate your own mcats you would need a left and a right depending on your circumstances they also sell prefabricated corners and stuff like that so they have everything you need to run a gutter system on whatever you’re doing whether it be corners or anything ours is just a straight run so it makes it pretty simple to seam your gutters together you could you could lap them together it doesn’t look as clean as far as water flow because the gutters don’t really sit together that well the way that they’re designed with the angles so they design strap cover plates that will go over the front of your gutters take your two gutters and you butt them together real tight with a bunch of and you put a bunch of sealant in between here i recommend caulking nice waterproofing and then you install that over the seam and that keeps your seam nice and water clean helps it to look clean these are made to actually sit tight with the metal the gutters when you lap them into each other they don’t really tend to sit real tight together without the help of screws and what type of caulking would you recommend because i know that you’re very particular about well we i use we use polyurethane um just for the elasticity for um into the metal uh really you want to use anything that except for silicone silicone really don’t do well in metal it expands and contracts too much it will allow your metal to really separate too much and create voids inside your metal you’re going to want something that’s strong but also elastic because when metal heats up it does expand so you got to have something that’s going to allow it to expand and contract with itself uh i recommend a polyurethane what i recommend um they do sell that it comes with it’s a seam sealer i’ve never personally used this and i don’t know what it’s made with because it doesn’t tell you what it’s made with um so i’m just going to use my own sealant instead of that one uh as far as equipment we got your downspout outlet this is your 90 degree elbow to kick your water away from your building uh because we don’t want water to wash out a pad we also opted for the extendable outlets these extend up to i think 55 inches yeah sounds really weird doesn’t it so and these are that was funny wasn’t it extended it uh these are made for the four by threes or the two by threes and then you cut off the excess if you want to connect them together to make it even longer uh one is plenty for us just to get the water off the pad and into the grass and that’s it and we will now start moving on to install and go from there all right so we got our measurement for where we’re going to place our down spout we’re going to put it 12 inches from our opposite corner over there uh just to have it on the back side so always make sure you got your right stick of gutter i put the end cap on it just to help remind what side of the gutter that you’re having to cut from go ahead and flip your gutter over and then get your center mark we’re going to do 12 inches and that’s going to be the center of our downspout and you can just eyeball it ain’t got to be nothing perfect just make sure that your edges of your outlet don’t go over the edges like that so always make sure that you center up the outside edges of your outlet give her a couple circles and you have your mark get you some tools you’re gonna need something to drill a hole into the metal show you a few holes just big enough if you have yourself a nice pair of sheet metal snips just big enough to get your snips in there to start your hole get around it out onto your outside edges of your wobbly line there and we don’t have a line here so we’re going to imagine one um so then you go through you do a little check you realize oh crap i made it too small you also got to add in the width right here so now that we got our roof cut we can go through and now clean up the lines now that we can see better what we’re doing i should have brought my thinner set to snip these big i made this one tight it mine’s a really really tight fit only because i’m opting to not use any fasteners in it just because this is for the farm and i’m not i’m just trying to save some time all it really needs is just a good bed of sealant and if you cut that metal really really tight it’s not going to go anywhere but if you’re doing this for your house i always recommend using your your fasteners just for longevity always remember to tool in your sealants you can’t just run the bead and leave it as it lays you have to have some form of tooling for your sealant you have to force the contact between the two so tool it in i put the caulking on the underside you don’t have to make yours as tight so that it drops right in place if you plan on using fasteners i plan on doing this as a no fastener system at least itself make sure you don’t have no rolled edges when you tool in your caulkings what i’m talking about rolled edges if you look at this edge right here it has kind of round to it and if you look over here what i did is i really flattened it out that’s going to keep the water from beating on that rolled edge and that water will eventually work that rolled edge up so you always want to round your outside edges of your exterior caulkings especially for high water, you want to go through and really flatten down that outside edge so that the water goes right over it without no resistance instead of that that small raise even if it’s just a small small raised edge if you give that water any kind of resistance it’s gonna water is is gonna work its way underneath it so you always want to make sure you have the flattest as possible surface for the water to travel over all right so now we’re going to get ready to set our straps in place down here i like to set my first one six inches from my my first edge and then it’s every 30 inches from there but this stuff don’t stop falling that’s going to equal about five straps and what that’s going to do is going to put your next strap on the next one your straps if you’re living up north and you’re watching this you might opt for a closer strap pattern say 24 inches just because you guys have snow and ice i’m not entirely sure what the regulations are for the north on the wing great one for the apology bearing so bearing if you are installing gutters up north i would definitely look into your strap distance down here we don’t have snow and ice so our gutters aren’t holding water for that long they’re just diverting water which is why we only need the straps every 30 inches to mitigate wind so if you are doing gutters up north look into your strap detail for how many straps you may need these screws are a quarter inch drive and what i recommend doing is push your strap down and go ahead and start your screw just a little bit through the metal you don’t want to go too far you want to keep it flush with the back side of here what that’s going to do is going to keep your strap from moving um what i see a lot is when people go to install these they don’t they don’t put the straps tight they don’t keep the straps in place so they’re always fighting with their straps when they’re trying to get it up underneath the drip edge i recommend starting just a little bit on your screw keep it flat with the back so it doesn’t interfere with you sliding it behind your drip edge what that’s going to do is that’s going to keep your strap in place and now you have something you can hold on to when you’re installing your gutter it also gives you something to pick up on when you set your first side instead of having to come from underneath if you’re up top above it you can grab that strap and you can pick it up and set your screws that way just makes it a lot easier for install all right so as you can see the screws and the edge of these straps went underneath the drip edge and you bottom the drip edge out to the top of the screw and that’s going to help keep the water from running back on that screw like so that’s all you got to do and then you drive your screw in as soon as your screw touches on your strap you want to stop you don’t want to over drive this and put too much torque on your strap uh because what that’s going to do is going to lift up the front of the gutter too much and you’re no longer going to have a nice level gutter we’re measuring for our second piece because these only come in 10 foot pieces so so what are you cutting that this you cut that other section off just to give yourself a room so that you can have nice clean cuts you can try to force your thing through there but if you plan on using your other section of metal doing that eventually you would torque the metal to a point where you would only have you would lose more usable surface area so cutting this extra line just allows you to make room for your snips to make that turn right there if you have a chop saw even just a chop saw with a wood blade you can cut these things with a chop saw the metal’s real real soft so that’s another reason for the small stress cuts is because the metal is so soft it’s very easy to rip the metal and then you only lose an inch to two inches as opposed to if you torque the metal you end up losing five to six inches of metal I didn’t show you on the last one, these literally slip right on.

18:33 - I recommend setting your curved side first and that’s the one that’s going to give you the most trouble really getting set in there the proper way sometimes they want to be a little aggravating to get that first one set then you work on that often you’ll have to get something in there you have to cut yourself a little notch for the end of your drip uh you’re under your gutter to come just a little bit past it because that water is going to come off right here on the edge too we’re lucky enough we got a metal roof this rail blocks most of the water uh so the water is only going to come off here, if this was a shingle roof I would have water coming off all the way to the corner so you want your gutter to come all the way to the edge of your roof your tops are going to look a little funny up until you put that plate on just make sure so for your seam plate run your two beads of caulking just like that your top first nice and tight you have a bottom which your corners pushed in then you have a top which is completely round so if you try to take your pushed insides they’re not going to fit together you have to take that open end to go around and they’re they’re kind of they fit real tight so it’s going to take a little bit of muscle but they’re meant to fit just like that and what that’s going to allow is your water flow is coming this way this is your direction of water flow that’s going to do is that’s going to allow the water to go past this junction so that water doesn’t leak out of your outlets if you were to put this on the other way and say you had pop that off right there and say you put this bottom piece you put this wide open piece down here at the bottom and you had to take your inside and you had to seam it that way what that’s going to do is that’s going to put the top of your seam inside the metal and that’s going to allow the water remember your water flow is coming down this way that’s going to allow your water to come out of your downspout so always remember that when you’re connecting downspouts together that they’re made to go a certain way so that the water flow goes with the seam not against it now i’m sure a lot of you guys are wondering how we’re going to make this cut in the middle right here you know this is a round piece of downspout there’s nowhere to get your snips to grab you could come from all the way and then make your foot or just remember what side of your downspout that you’re keeping so this is your bad side so you just take real close to your to your line take a drill bit and open that up to get your snips in there now you ain’t got to cut so far and because we’re not keeping the other side of this downspout i’m just going to cut it like this so i don’t have to keep switching my snips you’re good to go now you can uh don’t forget to take your pen make sure you’re straight up and down make a few marks so you know where to put your straps so you.